A guide to Koh Lanta's best beaches, bars and restaurants
Koh Lanta is far from undiscovered, it’s been a backpackers paradise for years, and thanks to a few boutique resorts sprouting up in recent years it’s currently crawling with happy honeymooners and instagram influencers. All this aside, it ended up being one of our favorite islands, despite having just come from Koh Yao Noi and Koh Yao Yai which were still relatively untouched and (in our minds at the time) unbeatable. But Koh Lanta’s relaxed and artsy vibe is part of its charm, and its hip new crowd has brought with it tasteful eateries and bars that seem to compliment (as opposed to ravage) the islands natural landscape. One of the things that sets Lanta apart from Thailand’s other islands is its contrasting locales. There’s the Old Town where old wooden pole houses line the shore, built out over its dramatically shifting tides. There’s the west side of the island where you’ll find lively beach bars and restaurants both authentic Thai and new age expat-owned. And then there are the large resorts nestled in the northern tip of the island, where large pools and stunning views are hidden away into the lush jungle. For the moment Lanta seems to be evolving organically alongside its tourism trade, but as development continues it may prove near impossible to maintain Lanta’s unspoiled charm. Only time will tell, but we’ve got fingers and toes crossed when we visit this island again there won’t be a McDonalds welcoming us from the end of the pier.*
Lanta Old Town
We began our stay in the Old Town, which is a charming little main street on Lanta’s east coast, lined with traditional wooden houses that stretch from the street to the sea, propped up on wooden beams. And while it’s unavoidable to run into a few tourists, it’s world tamer than the other side of Lanta. There are also still locals that live alongside the guesthouses and B&Bs which makes for really amazing people watching. I was especially taken with our next door neighbour, an eccentric elderly woman with a large collection of songbirds singing from ornate metal cages that crowded around her front door.
Stay
The Old Times B&B’s waterfront location, quirky details and decor, friendly staff, and stunning view, really made our experience on this part of the island all the more special.
(If you are staying elsewhere, Old Town makes for a great day trip!)
Eat
By this time we had been hopping Thailand’s islands for a couple of weeks, but we were really surprised to find the variety in cuisine on Koh Lanta was by far the most impressive, especially, and most surprisingly, in the Old Town.
The Old House is a waterfront coffee and breakfast spot with an art gallery upstairs. It’s definitely worth a visit, if only for the super sweet staff.
Apsara is known for their “3 kinds of spice” fried fish. It’s savoury and herbaceous with just a hint of heat, and fried in a way that left the skin crisped to perfection, and the meat soft, flaky and white.*
We avoided Di Farina Pizza Bar at first, not wanting to be the kind of tourists that eat pizza in Thailand, but it did happen to be right next door and smelled amazing so we caved and were so grateful we did. (Disclaimer: I’ve completely come around to the idea of straying from traditional cuisine when traveling, in fact it has lead to some of our most memorable meals.) Anyway, the pizza at Di Farina was impressive, and that’s coming from someone who lived in New York City for 7 years. It came out of a wood burning pizza oven with a pillowy crust, a crispy bottom, and gooey fresh mozzarella.
Caoutchouc was possibly one of our favorite spots, and it comes with a little bit of a story. Sat next to a secluded sandy bay with a tire swing at the very end of the mainstreet, Caoutchouc is a beautiful, partially converted wooden house with a porch that wraps all the way around the side to the back. Inside it’s colorful and spacious, with lanterns hung from the ceiling. We found the owner, a tall smiling frenchman, alone in his kitchen and he, seeming pleasantly surprised, welcomed us as if to his home. As we passed by his bedroom, the door open to reveal a tidy room simply furnished with funky decor, we realized indeed it was his home. The patio was covered in wooden tables and chairs, shaded by large red umbrellas and as we settled under one ourselves we felt instantly at home. The menu is one or two items long and written on a small blackboard. Sometimes Thai, sometimes French, but usually an inventive combination of both, his menu reflects whatever ingredients he has and whatever he’s up for making that day, and usually includes a special cocktail. We were completely smitten with the place, and our lunch was simple and delicious. After chatting for a bit, the owner invited us back for dinner that night - usually he’s only open for lunch, but he said sometimes he hosts little parties, and invites people he thinks would appreciate them. So later that evening we walked back and found him out on the patio with a motley cru of french expats and travellers, talking and laughing over a record he had playing in his bedroom. We feasted on chilli con carne and salad, drank cold watermelon cocktails, and waited for the enormous moon he promised us - which eventually emerged from behind the clouds in all her glowing amber glory. We thanked him profusely and paid, and he and his friends waved us off smiling. The man with the perfect life, we thought as we walked away, his music floating through the dark behind us.
The End! Now on to the other side of Koh Lanta!
Koh Lanta’s West Coast…
is very different to its east - for one thing its beaches are long and sandy, most of them spotted with beach bars and guesthouses. Being budget travellers, we stayed on Klong Nin Beach, and rented a motorbike every day to explore the coastline and visit other more secluded beaches. While this side of the island is more lively, popular, and undeniably touristy, it has retained some of its castaway charm.
Beaches
Bakantiang Beach is one of the more developed beaches with plenty of restaurants and bars to relax and make new friends in, including our favorites - Why Not Bar and Same Same But Different. The beach itself is perfect for sunbathing with a cocktail in hand.
Nui Beach is a tiny beach but worth the stop if you’re looking for something quieter and more secluded.
Klong Chak is lined with a couple of nicer resorts but it’s a good place to stop for a drink and because it’s more secluded, it can be a more romantic place for a swim.
Bamboo Bay is a tough one to find, but a beautiful drive down and once you get there it’s worth the journey. Rockier than its neighbouring beaches and framed by surrounding jungle, it’s probably one of the most picturesque beaches we found.
Eating and Drinking
Yang Garden is a must. Their beautifully designed garden and delicious food is hard to beat.
Rasta Baby is a really fun bar with live music and a lively fire show in the evenings.
Why Not Bar is the perfect backpackers spot with friendly bartenders and live music in the evenings.
Same Same But Different has cool design and delicious food and cocktails.
This is by no means the extent of Koh Lanta, but hopefully it’s a helpful roundup! My recommendation is to go now before it loses its castaway charm all together.
Have you been to Koh Lanta? If so, I’d love to hear your recommendations!
